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By the Glass

Spanish reds from a high plateau are a grill’s best friend

Ellen Bhang for The Boston Globe/Ellen Bhang

When the grill is on and flame-seared fare is the order of the day, you need a glass of wine that will stand up to it.

Our search was rewarded with reds from Ribera del Duero, Spain, where supple, spicy pours made from the tempranillo grape — and full of intense ripe fruit — play well with everything that sizzles. They hail from a relatively undiscovered region.

Ribera del Duero, literally “banks of the Duero River,” is a two-hour drive from Madrid, situated on a high plateau in north-central Spain. As its name suggests, vineyards hug the banks of the river and climb adjacent hillsides. The Duero connects four provinces of Castilla y Leon: Burgos, Segovia, Soria, and Valladolid. Dotted with ruins of medieval fortresses and monasteries, this region has produced wine for more than 2,000 years.

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In the 1860s, the area gained notoriety when Bordeaux varietals were planted alongside tinto fino (the local name for tempranillo) and the storied wine Vega Sicilia was made. Yet many wine drinkers are better acquainted with reds from neighboring Rioja, whose longstanding commercial ties to France and other export markets bolstered visibility. Ribera del Duero wines were finally recognized with a Denominacion de Origen (DO) in 1982 and have been gaining recognition ever since.

On shop shelves, we spy vintages from 2009 through 2011 that sport the Ribera del Duero seal of authenticity. A fuchsia stripe indicates a “cosecha” style that spends relatively little time in oak, and is meant to be drunk young. A brick-red stripe indicates a “crianza” wine, that ages two years, with a minimum of one year in oak barrels. But there’s no heavy-handed oak here; wines emphasize lush fruit infused with spice and moderate-plus acidity, making them quite food friendly.

These reds are favorites of the wine team at Tres Gatos in Jamaica Plain, a tapas bar that doubles as a book and music store, and offers an all-Spanish wine list. Keith Harmon, wine program director, says the Duero reds are known for round fruit, substantial body, fine tannins, and herbaceousness. “Great with lamb and other serious proteins,” he remarks, or excellent with charred eggplant and sweet roasted peppers. Sarah McKeon, manager and assistant wine director, loves to recommend these pours to guests. “They hit a nice spot,” she says, explaining that the wines are concentrated yet medium bodied.

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On an evening warm enough to leave the door propped open, we try one of the wines at Tres Gatos. Mira Stella, the other assistant wine director, is behind the bar, uncorking a 2009 “El Pedrosal” from Bodegas Perez Pascuas. She pours it into a stemless glass and we sip it with lamb bocadillo, a slider with garlicky chimichurri and crispy shallots on a house-made potato roll, and a slender slice of tortilla espanola with lemony aioli. The wine’s supple fruit shines beside the mini-burger, while its spicy, herbaceous side blooms when paired with the wedge of potato and egg. These are pours that can please omnivore and vegetarian alike.

Protos Bodega “Protos” Tinto Fino Ribera del Duero 2010 Aromas of fruit, spice, and a whiff of sweet oak. Soft on entry, with a mixture of cherry conserves, tobacco leaf, and smooth tannins. Around $14. At Whole Foods River Street, Cambridge, 617-876-6990; The Urban Grape, Chestnut Hill, 617-232-4831.

Seleccion de Torres, “Celeste” Crianza Ribera del Duero 2009 Pretty and refined with black cherry, chocolate, and fennel frond aromas. Ripe and velvety with appetizing balsamic bitterness and a pleasing finish. Around $16. At Ball Square Fine Wines & Liquors, Somerville, 617-623-9500; Wollaston Wine & Spirits, Quincy, 617-479-4433.

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Bodegas Felix Callejo “Flores de Callejo” Ribera del Duero 2011 This purple wine is youthful and exuberant, brimming with blackberry, cocoa, and a surprising hit of sweetness. Noticeable tannins but texturally quite smooth. Around $20. At Ball Square; Medfield Wine Shoppe, Medfield, 508-359-4097.

Bodegas Emilio Moro “Emilio Moro” Ribera del Duero 2009 Sleek cherry fruit and plum with savory notes of black olives and spice. Well-integrated oak with refined, rounded tannins. Around $26. At Brix on Broad, Financial District, 617-542-2749 x2; Wine & Cheese Cask, Somerville, 617-623-8656.


Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.